5 days in Northeast Sardinia: beaches, food and villages from Olbia

Part of the reason I put this guide together is that we get the same question all year round. Friends, family, people who have heard about northeast Sardinia and are finally thinking about making the trip. Where should we go? What is actually worth doing? Is five days enough?

I have been travelling to Sardinia from abroad for more than twenty years. In the beginning I moved around a lot, tried to see as much as possible, drove across the island, ticked beaches off a list. I understand that impulse. At the start, you do not know yet what the place is, so you try to see all of it.

What I have learned over those twenty years is that Sardinia does not reward rushing. The itinerary I have put together here reflects how I travel now: slower, more local, with space in the day. Some friends come and spend a whole week on the same stretch of beach because they fall in love with it, with the water, the light, the little bar at the back of the sand. That is a completely valid version of the trip. Others want to explore. Both are right.

This guide leans toward the explorer, but a thoughtful one. I prefer quieter beaches with fewer people, partly because I live in a big city and the last thing I need on holiday is another crowd. That is personal. Each person knows what they prefer. Use this as a starting point and adjust for what you actually want from a week in Sardinia.

Five days is the minimum I would call a proper break. Enough to actually disconnect, not just transit. Seven days is better if you can manage it, and I have added an optional day for La Maddalena that alone is worth the extra time. But five is a solid base. Here is how I would spend them.

Before you plan: do not try to see all of Sardinia

Sardinia looks simple on a map but distances take time. Roads can be slower than expected, parking near beaches in high season can be limited, and the best days are often the ones where you leave early and do less.

For a five-day stay, focus on northeast Sardinia rather than trying to cross the island. From an Olbia-area base you can experience a lot: beaches that feel almost Caribbean on calm days, Tavolara rising from the sea, local seafood, countryside dinners at agriturismi, a ferry to La Maddalena, and market villages without stretching too far.

The point is not to tick off every famous beach. It is to enjoy the area properly.

Day 1: Arrive in Olbia, collect your car and settle in

Olbia Airport is one of the easiest arrival points for northeast Sardinia. Once you land, collect your rental car straight away and drive to your accommodation.

If you are staying around Murta Maria, the drive from the airport is usually around 5 to 10 minutes depending on traffic and the exact location. That makes the first day simple: arrive, settle in, unpack and recover from the journey.

If you arrive early and still have energy, keep it easy. Go to a nearby beach, have a short walk, or enjoy a relaxed drink before dinner. If you are arriving after a long flight, do not over-plan the first day. A local dinner and an early night is often the right move.

Speaking of which: if you are based near Murta Maria, Churrascaria Campeira is right on your doorstep and a good first-night option. Brazilian-style charcoal grill, excellent meat and grilled vegetables, easy atmosphere. No need to drive far on Day 1.

Good first-day rhythm

• Land in Olbia, collect your car
• Drive to your base near Murta Maria, Olbia or Porto San Paolo
• Settle in, unpack
• Short walk or easy beach visit if you arrive early
• Dinner nearby and an early night

Day 2: Porto Istana before sunrise, Tavolara views and a slow afternoon

If you are jet-lagged, use it. This is the day to set the alarm before the sun comes up and drive to Porto Istana.

Porto Istana is one of the best early-morning beaches near Olbia and Murta Maria. The views across to Tavolara are some of the finest on this stretch of coast, and before sunrise the whole place belongs to you. Walk down to the water, go in if you are ready, and watch the sun coming up from the back of Tavolara. The light in those first minutes is something. There are very few mornings in Sardinia better than this one.

By late morning, especially in high season, Porto Istana fills up. That is the signal to leave. You have already had the best of it.

For lunch, stay around Porto Istana or return towards Murta Maria. After lunch, the most Sardinian thing you can do is rest. Go back, shower, read, sleep, or wait for the softer light later in the afternoon.

In the evening, head towards Marina Maria for sunset. Quieter than the beach clubs and resort areas. Better for simply watching the light change.

Day 2 plan

• Before sunrise: drive to Porto Istana
• Swim, walk, watch Tavolara appear from the dark
• Leave before late morning when the beach fills up
• Local lunch near Porto Istana or back at Murta Maria
• Rest in the afternoon
• Sunset near Marina Maria or Capo Ceraso
• Dinner nearby

Day 3: Marina Maria at sunrise, then south to San Teodoro

By Day 3 your body is beginning to adjust. Use the early morning again, this time at Marina Maria.

Marina Maria has a different feeling from Porto Istana. It is wilder, less organised, better for a quiet hour than a full beach day. Drive to the very end of the road, park, and walk to the water. If you want to do a few stretches, a short yoga session or simply sit and watch the sun come up over the sea, this is the place for it. The light is good and, early enough, you will have it to yourself.

Insider tip: Parking enforcement in Sardinia typically does not start until 9am. If you plan a sunrise swim and want to be back for coffee before that, drive to the very end of the road and park freely. Be back before 9 and you will not see a ticket.

After breakfast, Day 3 is the day to go a little further south towards San Teodoro. This part of the coast has some of the most famous beaches in northeast Sardinia. Cala Brandinchi and Lu Impostu are beautiful but need more planning in season. For a less stressful option, La Cinta near San Teodoro is more spacious and easier if you do not want the logistics of a smaller, more popular beach.

Beach options for Day 3

• Cala Brandinchi: beautiful, famous, often busy. Plan ahead.
• Lu Impostu: scenic, also best with an early start and planning.
• La Cinta: more space, easier for a relaxed beach day.
• San Teodoro: good for an evening walk, dinner or summer market atmosphere.

If you are already near San Teodoro in the evening, this is the night for Ristorante Mares. It sits on a hill above the town with a terrace looking out over Tavolara and Molara. The fish is good, the wine list is serious, and the view makes everything taste better. Book ahead and go for a table outside.

Day 3 plan

• Before sunrise: Marina Maria for a swim, yoga or a quiet sit with the sun coming up
• Back for coffee before 9am
• Drive south to San Teodoro after breakfast
• Choose Cala Brandinchi, Lu Impostu or La Cinta
• Bring water, shade and a cooler bag if not using beach services
• Dinner at Ristorante Mares in San Teodoro, or return closer to Murta Maria

Day 4: San Pantaleo, Costa Smeralda, and an agriturismo dinner

By Day 4 you have a choice. You can keep it local and have another beach day, or use the day to explore a different side of northeast Sardinia.

If you want villages and a little more design, craft and atmosphere, head towards San Pantaleo. On Thursday mornings there is a well-known market. From San Pantaleo you can continue towards Porto Cervo, Porto Rotondo or parts of Costa Smeralda. This is the more polished side of the northeast. Some people love it; others find it less authentic than the wilder coastline and countryside. Worth seeing if you are curious, especially as a contrast to what you have already done.

If you do explore Costa Smeralda, treat it as a scenic drive and coastal day rather than trying to force a long beach session. Keep lunch light because tonight is agriturismo night.

For the evening, go to Agriturismo Boltei near Padru. About 20 minutes inland from the coast, which is part of the point. Fixed price, several courses, house wine included. The pork is the reason to go: slow-cooked, the way it only works when someone has been doing it for a long time. Ask for a seat outside at the back, looking toward the mountains. On a still evening, with the hills going dark and the food still arriving, it is one of those meals you keep talking about on the drive home. Book ahead. Arrive hungry.

Day 4 plan

• Option A: slow local beach day
• Option B: San Pantaleo market and Costa Smeralda drive
• Light lunch
• Agriturismo Boltei for dinner in the evening

Day 5: La Maddalena and Caprera

If there is one day in this itinerary that earns its own section, it is this one.

La Maddalena is a small island off the northern tip of Sardinia, reached by a ferry from Palau that takes less than 15 minutes. The crossing itself is scenic, with open water, other islands in the distance and Tavolara visible behind you as you pull away from the coast.

What you find when you arrive is one of the best small towns in this part of the Mediterranean. The harbour is beautiful in an unfussy way: fishing village bones, good restaurants along the water, an easy pace. It is not trying to be glamorous. That is exactly what makes it work. Walk the old streets, find a table for lunch, watch the boats.

From La Maddalena, drive across the short bridge to Caprera. The island is largely a nature reserve and feels genuinely remote: wild beaches, pine forests, rocks going down to water so clear it barely looks real. Drive slowly. The road to the far side of the island takes you through territory where wild boars roam freely and cross in front of the car without much interest in your schedule. This is not a zoo. It is just Sardinia a little further from the tourist trail.

If you can, bring a change of clothes and plan to stay for the evening. As the day cools, head back into La Maddalena town, find a spot for aperitivo on the harbour, and have dinner on the island. The restaurants are genuinely good. The atmosphere in the evening, when the day-trippers have gone and the town settles back into itself, is something else entirely.

I truly love this place. The little harbour, the old fishing village feeling, the wild beaches and the animals moving freely through the hills. It is one of the most beautiful small islands I know.

Day 5 plan

• Morning: drive north to Palau (roughly 1 hour from Murta Maria)
• Take the ferry to La Maddalena (15 minutes, very scenic)
• Walk the old town and harbour, lunch on the island
• Drive across to Caprera in the afternoon
• Wild beaches, pine forests, and watch for wild boars on the road
• Back to La Maddalena for aperitivo and dinner
• Evening ferry back to Palau and drive home

Insider tip: Bring a bag with a change of clothes if you plan to stay for dinner. The evening in La Maddalena after the day-trippers leave is completely different from the afternoon. It is worth staying for.

Day 6 (or Day 5 alternative): choose your final highlight

If you have done La Maddalena on Day 5, use the final day for something slower. If you skipped the polished Costa Smeralda side on Day 4, now is the time. Or simply return to your favourite beach.

If you want a big final day, drive south to Cala Gonone and the Gulf of Orosei. One of Sardinia's most dramatic coastal areas, with boat trips, caves and beaches only reachable from the sea. Start early and do not underestimate the travel time.

If you want to stay closer, rent a small boat or dinghy and explore the Tavolara and Molara area depending on weather and local rental conditions. A half-day on the water is often one of the strongest memories people take home from this part of Sardinia.

If you want a slower final day, stay local. Return to Porto Istana, have lunch near the sea, walk Olbia old town in the evening, or simply sit on the terrace with a Vermentino and do nothing.

Options

• Big day: Cala Gonone and the Gulf of Orosei
• Sea day: boat or dinghy around Tavolara and Molara
• Slow day: return to Porto Istana, Porto Taverna or La Cinta
• Town evening: Olbia old town, aperitivo and dinner

If you have 7 days

Seven days gives the itinerary more space. Instead of choosing between La Maddalena and the Gulf of Orosei, you can do both. Good additional days:

• A Tavolara boat trip
• Capo Coda Cavallo
• Porto Taverna
• A wine tasting at Capichera or another Gallura winery
• A second agriturismo or countryside dinner
• A full slow beach day with no driving pressure
• A trip inland towards Gallura villages
• A longer northern day towards Castelsardo, if you are happy to spend more time in the car

For wine lovers, Capichera is one of the best-known wineries in Gallura, especially for Vermentino. Book in advance and check opening days before planning your route.

Best beaches near Olbia for this itinerary

A practical shortlist for a five-day stay, not an exhaustive ranking. The famous beaches are famous for a reason, but the less organised ones are often better if you go at the right time.

Porto Istana

Close, scenic and best before sunrise. The Tavolara views are among the finest on this stretch of coast. Go early, leave before late morning.

Marina Maria

Wilder and less organised than Porto Istana. Drive to the very end, walk to the water. Good for a sunrise swim, a few stretches or simply sitting with the sea before the day starts.

Porto Taverna

Beautiful Tavolara views and a strong option for a relaxed beach day.

Cala Brandinchi

Famous and beautiful, but plan ahead. In season, access and parking need more organisation.

Lu Impostu

Another standout beach near San Teodoro. Best enjoyed with planning and an early start.

La Cinta

Long, spacious and easier if you want fewer logistics than the smaller famous beaches.

Capo Coda Cavallo

Excellent for scenery, sea colour and a more dramatic coastal landscape.

La Maddalena and Caprera beaches

Remote, wild and unlike anything on the mainland coast. Some are only reachable on foot or by boat. Worth the effort.

Where to eat: the places we actually go back to

Most food recommendations for this part of Sardinia are either too generic or too outdated. These are the places in our current rotation.

Ristorante Mares – San Teodoro (fish)

Dinner with a view of Tavolara and Molara from a terrace above the town. The fish is good, the wine list is serious. Not cheap, and the menu is not long, but that is not the point. Pair it with a Day 3 San Teodoro beach day so the evening feels earned. Book ahead. Table outside.

Agriturismo Boltei – Padru (countryside dinner)

The one I have been recommending to friends and family for years. About 20 minutes inland, up near Padru. Fixed price, several courses, house wine included. The pork is the reason to go: slow-cooked, the way it only works when someone has been doing it for a long time. Ask for a seat outside at the back, looking toward the mountains. On a warm, still evening it is one of those meals that is hard to explain to people who have not been there. Book ahead. Arrive hungry.

Churrascaria Campeira – Murta Maria (meat and grilled vegetables)

Right on the doorstep if you are based near Murta Maria. Brazilian-style charcoal grill, excellent meat and grilled vegetables, good atmosphere. An easy first-night dinner or a night when you want something simple and generous without driving anywhere.

Il Farè – Olbia area (Neapolitan pizza)

If you want a proper pizza night, Il Farè is the answer. Neapolitan dough, good ingredients, very good atmosphere. Not what you expect to find this close to the coast in Sardinia, which is exactly why it works. Good for a relaxed evening when the beach has tired everyone out.

Costa Turchese – Murta Maria (gelato)

Do not leave without trying the gelato here. If you are based near Murta Maria and you decide on a quiet evening in, walk down after dinner, get a cone and walk back up. The hill makes you earn it and the ice cream makes it worth it. It is one of those small rituals that sets you in the right mood for a good night's sleep. Really, really good.

One general rule: do not plan the whole trip around one restaurant. Quality varies by season, places change hands and hours are not always predictable. Keep a shortlist and book the ones that matter most.

Other things to try

• Seafood near Porto San Paolo or Olbia
• Octopus panino or casual seafood in Olbia old town
• Porceddu, the traditional Sardinian roast suckling pig, at any agriturismo
• Vermentino di Gallura
• Seadas: fried pastry with pecorino and honey, usually at the end of an agriturismo meal
• Aperitivo in Olbia or San Teodoro
• Mirto or another local digestivo after dinner

Where to stay for this itinerary

For this kind of trip, location matters. You want to be close enough to Olbia Airport and the coast, but not trapped in the busiest resort areas unless that is exactly what you want.

Olbia is practical if you like being near a town, restaurants and services. Porto San Paolo is good if you want to be closer to Tavolara and the sea. Golfo Aranci works well for beaches and coastal access further north.

Murta Maria is a strong middle ground: close to Olbia Airport, Porto Istana, Marina Maria, Porto San Paolo and the road south towards San Teodoro. For the La Maddalena day, Palau is about an hour north by car.

Su Bisu sits above Murta Maria in the hills. Porto Istana on Day 2 is about 10 minutes. Marina Maria for the sunrise on Day 3 is less than 5 minutes. The San Teodoro beaches are 30 to 40 minutes south. San Pantaleo and Costa Smeralda are around 25 minutes. Agriturismo Boltei is roughly 20 minutes inland. Churrascaria Campeira and Costa Turchese gelateria are a short walk or a 2-minute drive.

Su Bisu works best for guests who want to come back to quiet at the end of the day. Not a resort, not a town centre, not nightlife outside the door. The hill keeps the noise out, and that is the point.

Final advice

I have been coming to this part of Sardinia for more than twenty years. I moved around a lot in the beginning. Now I do less and enjoy it more. That is the advice underneath all of this.

Choose a good base, rent a car, start early, and leave space in the day. Porto Istana before the sun comes up. A morning swim at Marina Maria. San Teodoro beaches. A village or market. A fish dinner with Tavolara in the background. An agriturismo table in the hills. A ferry to La Maddalena and the wild boars crossing the road on Caprera in the afternoon. A cone from the gelateria on the walk home.

Sardinia is not only about reaching the famous places. It is about giving yourself enough time to enjoy them.

If you have questions about the area or want to check availability at Su Bisu, get in touch. We reply personally.